Buddy has never been wormed -even as a puppy. The breeder wanted to do it but I talked her out of it so that I could get him checked first. I did and he was negative. I've had him checked a couple of times (he's 9 months old) and he's always negative. My theory is I would not want to be given a toxic substance to kill something I don't have

, and I'm guessing he wouldn't either.
But if you don't de-worm as part of a maintenance program, you need to be aware of the signs and symptoms of them. Are they scooting across the floor or have diarrhea? Do you see little spaghetti type things in the poop or vomit, or weight loss and a pot belly (think roundworm) or maybe rice (think tapeworm). Is the animal anemic with pale gums, tarry stool or weak (think hookworm). Whipworms often cause no symptoms, but there can be persistant, watery diarrhea, especially if the animal has a compromised immune system. Some worms are so small you won't see them, so you do need to periodically (approx. once a year) bring a stool sample in to the vet even if you think they are okay.
Dr. Pitcairn considers worm-infested animals in three categories:
- very young animals that get roundworms before or after birth from their mom
- young or mature animals infested with fleas or that eat wild animals and get tapeworms
- mature but run down animals that are unhealthy and susceptible to parasites inside (roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, whipworms) and out (fleas, ticks, lice)
He does not support the practice of routinely worming puppies and kittens unless they have large numbers of worms and are symptomatic (diarrhea, pot belly, etc.).
What you use depends on the type of worm and the level of infestation. Many people have reported good effects with a product called
Parastat. I haven't needed it, but have read good things about it from people who have used it as an intestinal cleanser. The dose would need to be adjusted for a dog.
Dr Pitcairn's possible non-chemical remedies include:
- Category 1
- 1/2 to 1 tsp (depending on animals size) of wheat or oat bran daily to help carry out the worms. Also, the same of one of grated carrots, turnips or beets
- Garlic - 1/2 to 2 cloves (depending on animals size). Fresh, chopped, or grated into food.
- diatomaceous earth which is sometimes used for controlling fleas and is also effective against roundworms. Apparently the shell remnants of the diatoms are irritating to the outside of the worms and fleas and cause them to loosen their hold and leave. Cool, huh?
You add 1/4 to 1 teaspoon to each meal. Don't use the kind for swimming pool filters, but the natural unrefined kind available through herbal or garden suppliers.
According to Dr. Pitcairn, if an animal is healthy, and they are fed a good diet high in protein, a roundworm infection in a new pup will gradually decrease over the first few months of life and by six months they are seldom infected. With mature animals, it is important they get enough vitamin A since a deficiency will allow worms to reinfect.
- Category 2
- Pumpkin seeds are a safe treatment. Grind 1/4 to 1 teaspoon to a fine meal and give them to the pet immediately, with each meal.
- Wheat germ oil - 1/4 to 1 teaspoon to each meal.
- Vegetable enzymes - 1/4 to 1 teaspoon with each meal.
- Category 3 is more involved and he recommends working with your vet.
Dr Pitcairn's book goes into more detail, but these are his basic recommendations that he says are very effective. If a dog has a stubborn problem in getting rid of any intestinal worms, he recommends an occasional dose of castor oil. Giving this after a day of fasting will flush out all weakened worms. Use 1/2 teaspoon for puppies less than 3 months old and 1 teaspoon for 3-6 months. Adult dogs: 1 1/2 tablespoons for medium size and 2 tablespoons for large dogs.
Check the stool 6-8 weeks after treatment to be sure the problem is solved.
